How this price is calculated
There is no separate exchange quote for individual alloys. Every karat price is derived from the fine gold rate, and the arithmetic is fully open:
Every figure on this page comes from exactly this formula.
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What defines 585 gold
585 parts gold per 1,000 of alloy — 14 karat. The typical yellow gold composition is 58.5 % gold, roughly 32.5 % copper and 9 % silver. The high copper share provides hardness, and also makes 585 warmer but less saturated in tone than 750.
585 became the German standard because it struck a practical compromise: high enough for lasting colour stability and tarnish resistance, cheap enough for the mass market. Southern and western Europe favour 750; the UK traditionally 375. Fineness often reveals where an inherited piece came from.
At around 165 HV it is harder than 750 and thus more scratch-resistant. For delicate settings and fine engraving that extra hardness is a drawback, which is why high-end jewellery stays with 750.
585 also exists as white gold (with palladium or nickel) and red gold (copper-heavy). Gold content is identical across all colour variants, and buyback pricing follows that content alone.
Where 585 gold is used
Everyday jewellery. Curb and anchor chains, studs, solitaire rings, bracelets — the mid-market range of every German jeweller is predominantly 585.
Mid-range wedding bands. Where 750 is too expensive, 585 bands are the usual choice, and the greater hardness is arguably an advantage in daily wear.
Inherited pieces. Most gold jewellery sitting in German households is 585 or 333. For items from the 1960s to 1990s, 585 is the most frequent find.
Dental gold. Some dental alloys sit near 585, but with palladium and platinum additions that can raise value. Dental gold should always be assayed rather than settled at a flat 585 rate.
Buying 585 gold
New purchases carry intrinsic value, workmanship and 19 % VAT. On a plain 585 chain the metal share of the retail price is often 40–60 % — higher than for designer jewellery, but still far from an investment.
Insist on the weight in grams appearing on the invoice. It is the basis for every later valuation, for insurance as much as for sale. Two visually identical chains can differ several-fold in weight because one is solid and the other hollow.
Watch for hollow work. Many voluminous 585 chains are hollow. They look substantial but weigh little — and buyers pay by weight alone. Checking the gram figure prevents disappointment later.
Selling 585 gold
The arithmetic is simple: weight × 0.585 × fine gold rate, less refining charges. Realistic payouts are 88–94 % of that. Ten grams of 585 gold means 5.85 grams of fine gold — that is the number to compare offers against.
Have the piece weighed on a calibrated scale in front of you and the fineness measured openly. Reputable buyers do this and explain the result. Weighing out of sight, or taking the piece away before a price is agreed, is a warning sign.
Be cautious with postal buyers. It is convenient but you surrender control. Use it only with providers offering a transparent valuation record, insured shipping and a binding right to have the item returned if you decline the offer.
Stones are not paid for. Cubic zirconia and simple coloured stones are worthless; diamonds from about 0.3 carat are worth a separate appraisal. Agree in writing what happens to stones before handing anything over.
What a dealer actually pays out
Intrinsic value is the ceiling, not the payout. Buyers deduct refining charges and keep a trading margin. The range below is realistic for this fineness:
| Item | per gram | for 10 g |
|---|---|---|
| Intrinsic value (fine gold content) | € 71,87 | € 718,68 |
| Realistic payout — upper end −6,0 % | € 67,56 | € 675,56 |
| Realistic payout — lower end −12,0 % | € 63,24 | € 632,44 |
Rule of thumb: get at least two written quotes and watch the item being weighed. A reputable buyer states the fine gold rate used, the weight in grams and the deduction as separate lines — a single lump sum is impossible to compare.
German tax treatment of 585 gold
19 % VAT on new goods. Jewellery does not fall under the investment gold exemption of § 25c UStG, which covers only bars from 995/1000 and qualifying bullion coins.
Private sale: tax-free after one year. § 23 EStG treats gold jewellery like any other private asset. Held more than a year, the gain is income-tax free. Within the year a €1,000 threshold per calendar year applies, in force from the 2024 assessment period.
Inheritance. The deceased's holding period is attributed to the heir, so in practice almost every sale of inherited jewellery is income-tax free. Inheritance tax itself has its own allowances, which rise with closeness of relation.
No paperwork needed to sell. You do not need a purchase document to sell to a dealer. For § 23 EStG purposes evidence of the holding period can help — for inherited pieces a plausible account is normally sufficient.
Testing 585 gold
Find the mark. Common stamps are 585, 14K or 14kt. On chains it usually sits on a small tag by the clasp; on rings, inside the band. Use a loupe — the marks are tiny and often worn.
Magnet test. The fastest home screen. Gold, silver and copper are non-magnetic. A chain that clings to a strong magnet is very likely gold-plated steel. No attraction, however, proves nothing.
X-ray fluorescence at the buyer. Determines fineness in seconds without damaging the piece. Ask to see the reading.
Acid streak test. A streak on a touchstone treated with 585 test acid. Fast dissolution means lower fineness. Standard trade practice, with minimal material loss.
Common mistakes with 585 gold
- ⚠Confusing appearance with weight. Hollow jewellery looks solid but weighs little. At the buyer, only grams count.
- ⚠Getting only one quote. The spread between the best and worst offer on the same item is routinely 10–20 %. Two comparison quotes cost an hour and often gain three-figure sums.
- ⚠Settling dental gold at a flat rate. Dental alloys often contain palladium and platinum that must be paid for separately. Insist on an assay rather than a flat rate.
- ⚠Melting antique jewellery. Art Nouveau, Art Deco and signed pieces can fetch multiples of intrinsic value. Photograph and appraise before selling.